It is necessary to learn how to change the brake fluid by yourself because you will need to change it usually for your brake performance and driving safety. But, the car maintains service charge hundreds of dollar for once time brake fluid change. Actually, it is not difficult and you don’t have to pay for this. You will know that the brake line system is completely clean by following this procedure. Believe it or not, there are several types of brake fluid on the market, and the right one for you car/vehicle’s system depends on the type of system it is. Push one end of the tube over the brake bleeder bolt at the right rear of the car. You can top up your brake fluid without draining your system, and you can buy the stuff from lots of shops which sell car parts. If you have fresh brake fluid left, you can safely store it in your garage. You can do this using a turkey baster, which you can buy for as little as £1 from a hardware store or supermarket. Used brake fluid can be recycled with your used oil. Fill the reservoir back to the full line with fresh unopened brake fluid. That little piece keeps air from getting into the line, so it’s essential you put it back when you’re finished.
If you can apply this a couple of days beforehand to give it the chance to penetrate into every little crevice, so much the better. From a small little quibble to a very severe issue that could arise, why take that chance? Take the rubber cap off the bleeder bolt and set it somewhere safe so you don’t lose it. While your assistant is holding the lever in, use a wrench to open the bleeder valve just enough to let a surge of brake fluid escape into the hose and container. Then with the brake lever pulled in, crack the bleeder bold just loose enough to allow pressurized fluid to come out until the lever comes back to just before touching the handlebar.
When you attach the clear tubing that comes with the vac pump, attach the tubing to the small plastic jar, another hose from the jar to the hand pump, pump it up, and open bleeder screw. The other end of the clear hose should go into a jar to collect old brake fluid. While your assistant is holding the lever in, use a wrench to open the bleeder valve just enough to let a surge of brake fluid escape into the hose and container.
The lever can begin to feel spongy, and as braking efficiency drops, basically it takes longer to stop your snowmobile. Unabsorbed moisture can begin to collect in the system, causing corrosion in critical areas, water can cause seals to swell and deteriorate, further contaminating the fluid, and the fluid’s boiling point will drop beyond recommended levels. Once you begin seeing fresh, clear fluid coming out of the clear tubing (with no air bubbles) that comes out of the bleeder valve (no longer old, dark fluid), you can tighten the valve. Use a syringe and a plastic hose attached to the bleed valve (be careful not to push in air).
Final step, Slip a piece of clear plastic hose over the bleeder valve on your brake caliper; it should fit snugly. Your brakes are arguably the single most important piece of equipment on your car, and a faulty brake system quickly puts you and others in danger. In the brake system, it will slowly (over years) absorb water through the rubber hoses and parts, which is not good as it changes the performance characteristics of your braking system.
Besides, you can buy a vac pump that will turn your brake bleeding into a one man job. You have to then warn them that the pedal is about to sink further down, but they should keep their foot on the pedal, again keeping the pressure constant, while you tighten the bleeder bolt a quarter of a turn. After the PS fluid system has been flushed, then every 6 months siphon out the reservoir and replace with clean fluid. Expert mechanic Jon Olson walks you through the process step-by-step, explaining how your braking system functions, how to fix a simple leak in your brake line and how to check your brake fluid and tell when it has gone bad.
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